Thinking about Galicia, the northern province of Spain, often brings about an image of rain. That's true enough, but the result of so much water from heaven is a heavenly vegetation and a lush and always fresh countryside which is a joy to explore.
Fragas is the Galego word for a dense forest and that's the predominant feature of the nature reserve of Fragas do Eume which covers an area of 9125 ha, following the meandering river Eume through the province of La Coruna.
How to Reach the Fragas do Eume
The nature reserve can be explored either by car or following clearly marked hiking paths. There are four entrances to the park:
- the Coaveiro entrance from the AC 151
- the A Capela entrance from the AC 141
- the Eume Dam entrance which leads to a water reservoir and branches off from the AC 141
- the Monfero entrance, to be reached from the AC 151
A good starting point for all excursions is the medieval town of Pontedeume, easily reached from La Coruna on the AP-9. The visitor, touring Galicia, will be surprised by the difference of this landscape from the wild and rough Coast of Death in the north/west.
Pontedeume's Sights
The town got its name from the impressive, arched stone bridge which spans the river Eume, a broad, slow flowing river on its way to the Atlantic. The bridge in its present shape, was constructed between 1863 and 1888, but its origins are much older. The first bridge dates from the 14th century and featured a pilgrim's hospital on the bridge, as well as watch towers and accommodation for pilgrims.
Of that bridge only the stone statues of a wild boar and a bear are left which are displayed on the round about on the town side of the bridge. Next to look at is the Torreon de Andrade, a remaining tower of the castle and wall which encircled the town and which today houses the tourist information center for the region.
A walk through the cobble stone streets is a pleasure. Every Saturday, a lively street market is held, the hub of which are the numerous stalls which cook fresh pulpo (squid), Galicia's signature food. It's cooked in copper pots on the spot, cut up, served on paper plates and eaten as a snack.
Monastery of Monfero
Entering the Fragas by way of the monastery of Montfero is particularly rewarding, as it combines the possibility of admiring a beautiful monument with its baroque facade with a trip around the hills and forests of the nature reserve. The nearby reservoir allows for canoeing and rafting. A new luxury hotel is in the process of being built next to the monastery which, on completion, will invite to a very relaxing although expensive holiday.
Rio Magdalena
Driving from another worthwhile, medieval town, Villalba, a few miles towards Santaballa, the visitor has the unique opportunity to enjoy the fluvial beaches and thermal pools of the Ria Magdalena. Although a spa and hotel of the HUSA group is nearby, making use of the healing powers of the spring, the pool and amenities of the Magdalena are public and free to use. The place is clearly sign posted and the thermal waters are deemed to be beneficial for all kinds of skin diseases. The river provides soothing views and a variety of rare trees along its shores.
This north/western part of Galicia, as yet unspoilt by mass tourism, is a paradise for anyone who loves nature, a good hike, ancient history and the possibility to relax and swim. However, never forget rain protection. Even at the height of summer, Galicia is prone to heavy rain falls and dropping temperatures, interspersed with quite hot summer days.
Inka Piegsa-Quischotte - Since two years I am a full time travel and lifestyle writer and blogger. I published several articles and blogs on ...
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